An alert had already been sounded in 2022 when the LE LAY family from Brittany proposed a 21-year-old GRAAL (which I was lucky enough to let you taste here), but it was from a very limited series and no one really followed suit in terms of old whisky.

In 2024, however, things changed with the arrival on the market of whiskies with significant age counts: Brasserie Michard in Limoges and Warenghem in Lannion with two honourable 15 year olds and Grande Distillerie Peureux in Fougerole with a 17 year old (which I'll tell you about shortly). We should also mention the magnificent 18-year-old Tempus Vitae (in ex-Sauternes casks) offered in a very limited edition by the Rozelieures distillery (only 10 copies).

To talk to you about the wine that will conclude this year 2024 with the brilliance of its 21 years, it seemed only natural that I should offer you a tasting in the setting of Peat-Easy, comfortably seated in my club armchair.

So what about BM SIGNATURE?

Bruno Mangin himself

BM Signature has its origins in the craft creations produced by Bruno Mangin in 1994 in Bletterans in the Jura.

The singular, passionate and visionary Bruno Mangin began his career creating beers, driven by a crazy idea: to found a craft brewery at a time when beer was not yet fashionable. He succeeded in setting up a circuit for sourcing local barley and creating products that reflect the Jura terroir. 

Alambic Blavier at the Brulerie de Revermont

In 1999, he turned to spirits and was able to offer his first distillates in 2003. The ROUGET DE l'ISLE distillery was not yet producing, but Bruno stepped up the pace from 2006 by having his brews distilled at the Brulerie de Revermont (in the now mythical Blavier still, which features a complex rectification column to better separate the different fractions from the alcohol vapour, leading to a purer, more refined end product). The brewery's Armagnac stills began production in 2012.

Since 2016, BM SIGNATURE's expertise and commitment to local products have made it a respected brand in the world of spirits.

Armagnac alambic in Rouget de l'Isle brewery

This brewery-distillery produces whiskies (and vodkas and gins) that are patiently matured in oak casks that have contained Jura wines. I had the opportunity to introduce you to MACVIN's PUR MALT FUT (here).

The year 2024 is a paradoxical turning point for Bruno Mangin and the ROUGET DE L'ISLE distillery.

Since February, voluntarily (after a gradual reduction since 2021 for personal reasons), not a single drop has left the Bletterans distillery's armagnaçais still (the still having even been sold). However, the stocks accumulated by the brand have enabled it to offer a genuine range with age accounts under the BM SIGNATURE brand (which it has been offering since 2016):

- BM Signature 5 years (aged in ex casks of Rouget de Lisle beer and French wine including Macvin, Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille for 5 years) ;

- BM Signature 8 years (aged in ex-casks of Jura French wine for 8 years) ;

- BM Signature 12 ans (aged in ex Jura French wine casks for 12 years) ;

- BM Signature 15 ans (reddened by 15 years in Jura wine casks).

BM 21 Ans is the oldest French whisky to date.

It was distilled in 2003 in the famous Blavier still within the walls of the BRULERIE DE REVERMONT and then spent its 21 years of rest in yellow wine casks, first in a wet cellar and then in a dry cellar.

In 2024, only 4 of these casks remained, and the one chosen was number 009 (which means that there are 3 left for later). It was used to bottle 168 bottles and to offer a limited edition single cask! 

It was cask number 009 that put its stamp on the whisky, giving it an intense mahogany colour.

On the nose, the canonical age of this 21-year-old French whisky is immediately apparent, with notes of rancioté and sweetness.

The second whiff reveals notes of crème brûlée just out of the oven, accompanied by hints of caramel. A few spices timidly escape the glass.

The third pass is dominated by the presence of nuts, hazelnuts and especially walnuts, whose thick oils can be smelt. The journey ends with a scent of burnt wood and milk chocolate.

A little sweet

On aeration, the distillate takes on more pronounced notes of orange peel and dried fruit. The spices give way to more woody notes that remain light.

It is mellow and sweet on the palate, but very quickly becomes powerful, astringent and spicy. As banderillas of cloves sting the tongue it reveals woody notes and reveals its rancio side.

As it lingers in the mouth it becomes more honeyed and stewed, but retains a hint of citrus bitterness.  

The finish is very long, as if to salute the work of 21 years in cask. There are malty notes at the start, followed by more woody encaustic notes in the throat. The cheeks are coated with acacia honey.

The empty glass is adorned with sweet, malty notes. I'd advise you not to wash the glass, as it will become blond tobacco over time.

The work of the ‘Tonton Zegut’ of French whisky is evident in this fine whisky, and we're already dreaming of the other two casks of Jura wine which are waiting their turn to further enhance the distillate coming out of the Blavier still!