After our little incarnation in the world of mixology, let's stay in the world of whiskies aged in rum casks. Today, we are going to taste the G. ROZELIEURES SINGLE CASK HSE.
Once again, let's think of the planet and save fuel. We are going to stay in France. Direction the Great East, in Lorraine at one of the great producers (and one of the 3 biggest) of French whisky: ROZELIEURES.
I know it's starting to make some French tastings that I propose you (and even already in the East of France), but I had never been to this distillery (mea culpa).
It is thus the direction of Meurthe-et-Moselle (at the limit of the Vosges) that BRAD PEAT takes today towards the GRALLET-DUPIC distillery, better known under the name of G.ROZELIEURES (but especially located in the village of the same name -NDLR-).
In the distance we see a small mountain higher than the rest of the region: it looks like a volcano? But yes, a little further on the road a sign confirms it to us: it is the volcano "ROZELIEURES - ESSEY LA COTE" (415 m)! We arrive at our destination because something tells me that it is the one with the logo of ROZELIEURES whiskies!
BRAD PEAT has just entered this big village of 200 inhabitants. The indications were clear, on the left just after the wash house that stands in the center of the village! Follow the signs "La maison de la mirabelle plum house! "(we are in LORRAINE in the country of plums -NDLR-). But we didn't come here to taste the honorable eau de vie, but for whisky!
A little further on our left, we are in front of the famous Maison de la Mirabelle plum, but on the right we can see 6 dark casks stacked on top of each other! Here we are. The GRALLET-DUPIC DISTILLERY hidden a little further up, out of sight!
$We have an appointment with the smiling Christophe DUPIC (an engineer who has partly succeeded in perverting the members of the GRALLET family in plum brandy for more than 120 years and in directing them towards malt brandy -NDLR-).
As soon as we meet Christophe, we realize that last smiles omnipresent, there is also a certain pride, enough to sharpen our curiosity!
He thus leads us through his installations and especially explains to us that "ROZELIEURES" is one of the ONLY DISTILLERY IN THE WORLD to produce and realize its whisky from A to Z; And moreover by respecting the environment as much as possible! Something to be proud of indeed.
Christophe gives us some explanations anyway: Barley? from the field next door. The malting? Well from the malting of the Hautes-Vosges property of the house! The water? From the water table under the village (the same as in your bottles of Vittel in addition!). I quickly go over the brewing (from the personal brewery), the fermentation (in two passages in the tank right next to us) and the distillation (from the two stills right next to us)!
I say to him: "and the barrels"? He looked at me and said: "I will show you my collection later, but soon they will even be made from staves from the surrounding forest trees".
Indeed we do a lot of "home" here! It comes to me an idea! And the peat (hey PEATDREAM anyway!) ? Because you should know that most of its distillates are loaded with PPM when drying (up to 40 for the most peaty of the range). There he tells me indeed, it is not from here but it comes from Islay ! Well ok it was easy because it is forbidden to collect peat in France. And moreover if it comes from Islay then it is forgiven !
100% French ! Bravo ! I understand now a little more why ROZELIEURES whisky is very often the basis of work of many French whisky distributors (we had the opportunity to taste the work of Benjamin KUENTZ- Editor's note).
Christophe, leads us out of the distillery because he wants us to taste one of his "SINGLE TASTE". On the way to the tasting place, he tells us about his wide range: " ORIGINAL COLLECTION " (the cornerstone of the distillery), " RARE COLLECTION " (where the distillate passes through sherry, cognac or Sauternes casks), " FUMEE COLLECTION " (smoke and sherry), " TOURBE COLLECTION " (as its name indicates) and finally " SUBTIL COLLECTION " (the only non-peaty one in the range).
He also tells us that the distillery has 5 storage places (including 1 in a vaulted cellar - where we are going - and another in a fort only 30 minutes away - Fort Aventure -). He also tells us that he has a great passion for casks whatever their origin.
Our walk leads us to the center of the village where, hidden under an orchard, is a beautiful vaulted cellar, sheltered from angels! In this cellar we discover many barrels of bourbon or sherry, but also of Burgundy (especially Vosne-Romanée which also gives rise to a "single cask" distillate), Côtes-du-Rhône, Sauternes, Tokay... There are still barrels of Porto, Banyuls, Armagnac, Cognac and therefore of agricultural Rum (on which is placed the bottle that we are going to taste). Something tells me that Christophe likes to make his distillates live experiences.
So here it is, the famous FUT UNIQUE HSE which won the Concours Général Agricole in 2020 and which is adorned with a beautiful golden color.
Before tasting it, let's get to know it! Then Christophe's distillate made a stay like a large part of its congeners in an old Bourbon cask before being transferred for 14 months in a white oak cask having contained Martinique rum HSE (Saint Etienne dwelling) XO (at least 6 years). Why HSE? Simply because HSE can be considered as the Rozelieures of Martinique by its approach to rum finishes (Sherry, Port, Highland and Islay whiskies casks in particular). Also, it seemed normal that the two parties would get closer and exchange casks. Result on the Caribbean side a magnificent "Finish Rozelieures".
It's mouth watering! So what about it?
As always, I like to gradually smell the distillate. So we're going to go slowly. By approaching the nose of the glass we already recognize barley well and the more we advance inside the glass the more it is a beautiful pear which is discovered.
Because indeed, I do not think I am too wrong but the first big emanations which appear when the nose is well plunged in the glass, are those of an orchard with ripe fruits. The trademark ROZELIEURES not to be mistaken with beautiful ripe pears. The first passage will prove to be rather fresh and floral. It is nevertheless accompanied by a small point of smoke.
In the second passage, we leave Lorraine and we leave for the West Indies. No big vanilla as in a Rum, but exotic fruits, like pineapple and mango, which come to warm the atmosphere. As if coming out of a spice garden in Martinique, these fruits are accompanied by strong spicy notes that come to tickle and cling to the lashes.
The third passage will remain on the heat and it is there that we will discover notes of vanilla sprinkled with citrus fruit fragrances.
Beautiful announcement more complex than some references of the house.
When it enters the mouth, it's smooth, despite its 43% alcohol content. The rum-treated distillate is quite mellow. It will once again show its origin with a taste of pear (quite ripe and not that of the brandy more marked) and slightly smoked malted barley. This sweet side disappears for a while to give way to spices that come to prick the tongue. One can detect a mentholated point of cardamom. But the spices are only temporary because the sweetness of the pineapple (although not completely ripe) and vanilla come back rather quickly.
As it goes down the throat, it leaves a stick of cinnamon and a hint of dryness in the mouth.
And in the throat, it is the sweet taste of the pineapple and some spices that remains for some time.
The third passage will remain on the heat and it is there that we will discover notes of vanilla sprinkled with citrus fruit fragrances.
Beautiful announcement more complex than some references of the house.
Personnellement je trouve ces « petites séries » (à peine plus de 360 bouteilles) se montrent à chaque fois à la hauteur (je me rappelle d’un magnifique Finish Vosne-Romanée). Cependant avec le finish HSE, la barre est encore plus haute et réussi. A vous faire pousser des ananas à Nancy !